In this post on the Comms Women platform, Belle Moody, a student at the University of Alabama, College of Communication and Information Sciences, analyses an article by Liroy Choufan on fashion designers with a case study of Louis Vuitton, published in Fashion Theory (Taylor & Francis).
In the evolving world of fashion, the role of fashion designers is being taken over by celebrities. Liroy Choufan’s research article, “Theorizing the Third Generation of Fashion Designers: The Case of Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton”, published in Fashion Theory (Taylor & Francis) in 2024, explores how celebrities like Pharrell Williams are changing the fashion industry. The article examines celebrities who are now stepping into leadership roles at major fashion industries, which is blurring credibility.
Choufan’s study explores how Williams’s role as creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear in June 2023 reflects this debate. Some critics argue that individuals with stronger design and fashion backgrounds are being pushed aside in favor of celebrity marketing. While other critics view this shift as an emerging trend. Best known as a Grammy-winning musician, Williams lacks a fashion education but has built relationships within the industry through collaborations with brands like Adidas, Chanel, and Moncler. His first show in Paris was more than just a fashion show; it combined music, comedy, and fashion. This indicated that modern luxury brands aren’t just about clothes; they’re also about making cultural moments.
There is a growing shift in the fashion industry where luxury brands are focusing on cultural influence, like Williams’ appointment. Companies like Louis Vuitton use celebrity status to expand their audience, global superstars can excel trends and sales in a way that traditional designers cannot. Through social media, celebrities have direct access to millions of consumers, blurring the boundaries between designer, influencer, and brand ambassador. While this shift opens new opportunities for brands, it also raises concerns about the future of traditional fashion designers. Critics argue that prioritizing celebrity influence over design knowledge creates the risk of weakening the level of detail and creativity that luxury brands hold. Brands could value social media appeal above pushing creative boundaries, which could dismiss designers who have perfected their craft. Despite these concerns, the rise of celebrity-led fashion reflects the changing dynamics of the industry. Luxury companies are developing into entertainment-driven sources rather than exclusively being about craftsmanship. Under leaders like Williams, fashion is becoming more accessible and connected with music, film, and digital media, reshaping how audiences engage with luxury businesses. With his debut at Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams captures this new era by mixing spectacle with fashion. His runway show was not only about clothes but also a cultural event with live music, star-studded attendees, and a theatrical display resonating throughout social media. This strategy appeals to a larger audience by underlining the fact that modern fashion is as much about storytelling and experience as it is about design. As celebrity influence in fashion grows, it raises questions about the future of traditional designers. Will fashion houses continue to prioritize cultural relevance over technical expertise? Or will there be a balance where celebrities bring visibility while trained designers ensure quality and craftsmanship?
Regardless, this shift signals a new era where fashion is not just about creating garments but also about shaping cultural narratives on a global scale. Pharrell Williams’s role at Louis Vuitton shows how fashion is changing, with celebrity influence becoming just as important as design expertise. Some see this as an exciting evolution, while others worry it takes away from true craftsmanship. Luxury fashion is shifting to fit a digital, entertainment-driven world. As celebrities continue to shape the industry, the future of fashion will be defined by those who can blend style, culture, and global influence.
Full article reference: Choufan, L. (2024). Theorizing the Third Generation of Fashion Designers: The Case of Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton. Fashion Theory, 28(3), 393–417. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2024.2343148